A Country Worth Meeting

2:10 PM at 2:10 PM

After Saint Petersburg, coming back to Moscow felt like I was coming back to a familiar place that grew on me- a place I once was shocked by, I felt welcomed by. In our last week we relaxed more, took a break from tourist monuments and did everyday things- went to grocery stores, rode the metro over a dozen times, went to a mall, drank more beer, visited with family, and caught up on sleep. Every night before bed time I would study the Russian alphabet and whisper the sounds of the letters outloud. On the metro, walking through the city, and while in the grocery store I would put the sounds of letters together to read the words. Learning to read at least a limited amount in the last week made me feel as accomplished as finishing my 162 page thesis. The challenge of learning to say the words was only half the work. The words I could now semi-pronouce were unfamiliar to me- a vocabulary that became a new challenge to understand and learn. In my last week in Moscow I grew so excited and passionate about learning a language that seemed to daunting and intimidating in the first week. On my last day in the city- I felt brave enough to take the metro without my mom's translating help and even ordered two beers byself from a kiosk on the street. It might seem like a silly task- but the kiosks sell row of beers from behind a window. It is not like a grocery store where you can choose your bottle and take it up to the register to be rung up. You have to stick your head into the window of the kiosk and say the name of the beer, how many, and if you prefer it in a bottle or can. All of which I was able to do and then skip my way back to the embassy.

While I spent my last week focusing on the language, I also found myself finding comfort in the rushed city filled with unhelpful people. I started to notice Russians who all seemed to only reply in "niyet" and a head shake, were offering directions. Cars in the busy city traffic that would pummel any pedestrian that stupidly stepped into the streets were stopping to let people pass. I started to realize this busy and harsh city is really warm with a nice kick or punch to it. I started to relate to the fast pace and realize at home when I loose my patience with long lines, traffic, slow walkers or bike riders- it is really the Russian in me talking.

I spent time learning more about my Russian family- I met my mom's cousin's daughter Dasha, and her three young children. The youngest, Liza, who was eight told me she will teach me Russian. She is going to mail me letters she will cut out herself and words that start with each letter. I also grew closer to the "American" family and was able to watch Stefan quickly learn to ride a ripstick, along with listen to him recite memorized poetry (not at the same time, although maybe next time I will ask him to recite the poetry while on the ripstick). I had an amazing time talking to Dina about fashion, music, art, and connect on humorous level about the challenges of different Countries. Peter and I were able to go with my Pop to Tinkhoff a Russian brewrey that brewed its own beer there. We were hoping to finally get the hoppy stuff we were missing back at home, but found the Russians strictly brew pilsners (I had an unfiltered pilsner that was quite good) and lagers. I grew to feel at home in Peter and Dina's cozy apartment. The warmth, good food and drink, wonderful company, and laughs made me feel like I had just as much family in Russia as I do here, in Davis, the place I feel so tied too.

In our last days we went to izmaylovo (a Russian flea market of sorts that had artists selling things, and Russians selling antiques and items from the war that carried a weight and story that felt heavy). I was able to buy hand carved and painted matroyshkas like I have never seen before, cute antique postcards from the 50s and have writing still on them, a few other small things to bring home, and of course, I bargained to get some fur tails for the dogs. No one would believe me I would do it from the guy selling fur hats, but I felt like he might have some tails. Sure enough he had a black garabage bag full of them and to my surprise he accepted my deal of $1 each. After our big day of shopping we had the daunting task of trying to figure out how to pack everything back into our suitcases. Not only was it a hard task, but we were going to smuggle alot of things across customs- so hiding these items and deciding what the stories were going to be if we got caught were part of the challenge. Luckily we made it through customs with 6 bottles of vodka (well over the limit), fur tails, antiques that were not supposed to leave the country, and black caviar that we accepted as a gift from Nina's Maxime hours before the flight. As I walked through the Russian airport and security asked me "Have you accepted a gift from anyone while staying here in Russia?" I said no, like any good Russian would, and wished I could tell the security officer that the biggest gift I accepted was connecting to your country on so many different levels.

It has almost been a week since I have been home and I have been trying to write everyday but couldn't. I felt sick and like part of me was still left in Russia. My mind was numb and my head cloudy. I couldn't adapt back to this time and never had this problem before. It was like jetlag that never would get better. It was almost a heartache for a country I wish wasn't half way around the world from me.

The Davis streets that are usually so crowded at this time of year with all the students back, feel deserted. The signs that I now can read, feel dull and boring. The people in the grocery stores and airports all feel like they are going to slow. The hoppy beer that I drank like water now feels more bitter than ever. The english being spoken around me blurs together into sounds I no longer try to make out. The escalators at the airport feel slow and skinny.

I know every time you travel you grow as a person, but this Russia trip was huge for me. Maybe it is because I am in a point in my life where everything seems uncertain. But in Russia I learned two of the most important things I need right now in my life- bravery and courage. Costa Rica was an adventure with lots of memories. Germany was a beautiful country with amazing beer- that will always be one of my favorite places on earth. Russia was where I went to become brave and couragous. Through my connections with the culture, the people, my heritage and mom's memories- I have learned that the world is at my finger tips and is waiting for me to go explore it.

1 comments:

Unknown said...

I know what it's like to return to a place you once called "home" and feel sick about it. I guess it's a feeling we have to get used to between now and arriving at the place in life that makes us feel whole again.

Welcome back. Anytime you want to come down to the central valley to visit/go on beer adventures, you are always more than welcome (Yes, I'm back in Cali). I look forward to hanging with you soon.