Adapting to the Moscow Life

You think our government is corupt- welcome to Russia.

Russia has adapted so much of the Western Capitalism, yet they are still holding on strong to their Soviet ways. Stalin's Seven Sisters (some of the tallest buildings in Moscow) rise above everything else- the hammer and sicle constantly reminding you of the icons during the times. It seems like a majority of the men here still cut their hair in the soviet mullet. You tend to walk or drive the streets and fear the police more so than criminals. Moscow supposidly has an entire underground section- with roads and rivers and bunkers- that is completely secret and off-limits. Who knows what goes on down there. My great uncle who faught in world war two and was injured is treated above anyone else in Moscow. When we went to museums today he gets in free to anything and doesn't have to wait in lines. He asked the guard where to the park the car and the guard told him to drive it onto the sidewalk right in front of the gate of the museum. He reassured my great uncle that he would watch over it while we were inside. Sure enough he paced the car until we returned. Guarded it like it was royalty....because my great uncle was associated with the Soviet Government at a time.

Some more history I am learning from my family- My Dedushka's father (my great grandpa) and his brother worked for the government/Stalin. They lived in one of the Seven Sister's (an apt. building at the time). Because Stalin was so worried about traitors he deemed my great grandfather as a traitor. He sent his men to come and remove my great grandfather. He was never heard from again. They banished my dedushka, his sister (my aunt we are visiting) and their mother to a village. Shortly after my great grandmother grew ill and died- leaving my dedushka and my great aunt orphans. They decided to come back to Moscow and jumped onto a cargo train. My aunt said she remembers the bombs going off in the country side while taking the train. She would lay on top of my dedushka (who was 5 years old) and protect him as they made their way to the city. They found their way back to Stalin's Seven Sister Apt building and asked their uncle to take them in. He did for a short time but told them they had to leave, he didn't want anything to do with them because they were labeled as children of a traitor. This was the government during World War II.

Skip ahead to the 70s. When my dedushka decided to escape from Russia with my mom, uncle, and my Babushka. When they finally escaped the KGB showed up at my Great Aunt's door. (these are details added to the previous story). They took her away. For four days they imprisoned her and who knows what else they did to her. Probably torture- emotional at least. They told her she had to bring my mom's family back or they would take away her job. At the time she was the main architect designing the Russian White House (huge building you can see outside Dina and Peter's apt.) She was meant to win awards for the building. But she didn't tell them where my mom's family was. So they returned her to her husband but took away her job (scratched her name from the awards and lists of architects like she never existed). Since this experience she has never been the same person. Only she knows what went on during those 4 days with the KGB.



Moscow is a huge city. But as I uncover my family's history, I feel like I can look at the buildings around me and they are all connected to me. It feels small in many ways. Along with the stories I am learing, I tend to do touristy things...

Yesterday we found the Literature Cafe. The literature Cafe is a small place that is like a restuarant/museum. You walk into a dungeon of sorts into an underground area that has some original books. They serve beer and typical Russian food. I walked through the cafe (multiple rooms) and imagined the writers that hid there during the war to write their masterpieces. After that we went to visit Moscow University. I couldn't get inside because everything is guarded. My cousin tells me there was a bombing in the Moscow Metro years back and since then every building is highly protected. It was still a beautiful campus (the place my grandparents went) and the forests and river around it made me feel connected to nature. It was quiet and a nice break from the city streets.

Today we went to Novodevichy cemetery and convent (from the 1500s). The cemetery was beautiful- fall colors in the trees, headstones like statues. I felt honored to visit Chekov and Gogol's graves. There were also famous ballerinas which reminded me of Lisa. And lots of historical people- like Stalin's wife who he shot when she was 31. The church had real gold on it. It was breath taking. After the cemetery and convent we headed to the Tretyakov Art Gallery where my mom went as a child. The paintings were breath-taking. I couldn't take pictures inside and it was impossible to sneak (guards sat in every small room). But the paintings were beyond words- history, landscapes, portraits. All Russian artists. My mom showed me the same room she enjoyed to sit in as a child. It probably was the best room (no bias) but the nature paintings were amazing. The detail and brushstrokes so well ahead of their times. Enjoying good art makes me have butterflies in my chest.

After the gallery (we did a ton today) Dina wanted to take me to a Russian mall. A real Russian experience. It was intense but so worth it and tons of fun. Women crowded around $300 shoes and $1000 fur coats. I tried on some real tight Russian jeans- with accesorized zippers and all. I felt Russian momentarily and then decided it was in my blood and I am always Russian. I don't need the dress to show it. Dina and I made it back on our own through the city (I was proud of us-with the limited Russian) and then got off the metro. We saw the best Russian dress (too funny for words) of the day: a woman, probably mid 50s in a full blown unitard like suit (all one peice and long sleeve, long legs) tight as heck....and leopord print. Of course coupled with heels. If I had my camera out I would have snuck a picture. We ended the day buying two beers for $1.50 from a street kiosk. Couldn't be better.

Tomorrow we fly to Saint Petersburg. When it is quiet at night or when I am in the shower. I close my eyes and only hear Russian....